Barcelona's best kept secret is not Barcelona at all - it's Gràcia, the capital of Catalonia.

This vibrant and historic district is at the northern end of the Eixample neighbourhood in Barcelona, just a short scenic walk up the beautiful tree lined Passage de Gràcia from Gaudí's Casa Batlló and Casa Milà, en route up to the famous Park Güell.

If you're visiting Barcelona soon and have heard about the increasing local intolerance to the Summer crowds, "Tourists Go Home" graffiti, and protesters with water pistols - it's all true. 

The city has been so popular and reliant on tourism over the last few decades, that the increasing crowds, large tour groups clogging the streets and AirBnBs have pushed locals out of their homes and neighbourhoods. So the locals are pushing back.

In saying that - it's still one of my most favourite cities in the world that I've been visiting for over 20 years now for its sunny weather, late night food culture, beach bars, galleries and architecture - It really has got everything that I love in a city. 

You can (and should) try to avoid the crowds and tourist traps if you're visiting Barcelona, but you can still get an authentic local experience if you know where to go. 

And my favourite of those areas is Gràcia.

Once its own wealthy and independent region for centuries, before being annexed by Barcelona in the late 1800s. A touchy subject for Catalans that's best to do a little research on before visiting the neighbourhood to understand the history and significance.

Catalans speak their own language (Catalan), have their own traditions, own festivals, own history, and an amazing food and independent retail scene that's best explored on foot, hopping from market, to restaurant, to gallery, to bar.

Here's some of my tips for your weekend in Gràcia that should set you on your way!

Markets In Gracia

For breakfast - get your self to a local market, pull up a stool at a bar for a tortilla (traditional egg and potato omelette) and a coffee to get you on your way for the day. 

The historic markets in Gracia aren't built for tourism - they're the central meeting point and commerce centre for locals to shop and socialise, so are a beautiful way to spend the morning wandering.

Mercada De La Lliberttat - a large market hall for the freshest fruit and veg, seafood and meats, surrounded by shopping stalls, cafes and local bars.

Abecería Central - The historic central market of Gracia, currently under construction after being demolished a few years ago for renovations. The stall holders have all been pushed out to the adjacent streets and outskirts of the area, with many still operating. It's on track for a big re-opening next year, and sure to come back better than ever.

Mercada Del Lesseps - a smaller more modern boutique market at the northern end of Gracia on the way to Parc Güell.

Sunny Plazas In Gracia

One of the joys of this neighbourhood is its beautiful architecture, and sunny courtyard plazas to sit in surrounded by local cafes and tapas bars. 

The central meeting point for families, friends, dog walkers, buskers, ball games and sometimes the traditional Catalan dancing and music groups who finish their parades here on weekends.

The three main plazas to see on your visit

Placa de la Vila de Gràcia - find a table out the front of Bar Cadequés in the square for a local lunch and some great people watching.

Placa De La Virreina - Bar Virreina is a lovely leafy outdoor cafe for a coffee or a drink surrounded by the beautiful architecture

Placa Del Sol - Get a spot at Sol de Nit for a beer and a snack in the afternoon sun

Shopping & Galleries In Gracia

Delightfully artistic and creative - the fashion stores and shopping streets in Gràcia are a beautiful mix of independent local fashion labels, ceramic studios, boutique florists and sustainable brands lining the tree lined streets and boulevards that are pedestrianised on weekends.

Best Restaurants & Bars In Gràcia

You wont see a tourist menu or restaurant chain in these parts, its an eclectic mix of independent cafes and coffee roasters, tiled tapas bars, traditional bodegas and hole in the wall restaurants that are a joy to hop between and discover.

Not the definitive list by all means, it would be too long and I haven't had the pleasure of visiting every restaurant in Gracia - but these are a couple of my favourite finds based on local friends' recommendations to get you started.

Vermuteria Del Tano - old school vermut bar for an end of day or pre-dinner drink and some gildas, the small sticks of olives and anchovies.

Don't forget to order some of the Catalan mineral water - it's like no other. You can instantly feel the salty natural minerals doing your insides good.

Bar Bodega Quimet - A traditional bodega with large wooden tables for share plates of seafood and meat dishes. Book ahead for a table, or just arrive for a spot at the bar for tapas and a wine from the large barrels.

Where To Stay In Gràcia

Check in to Casa Gracia. It's an upmarket hostel slash hotel in a gorgeous historic building on Passage De Gràcia that's great for independent travellers, groups of friends, and couples with all types of rooms available from shared bunk rooms, to spacious doubles and couples rooms. 

A beautiful sunny rooftop for breakfast or getting your laptop out. And a cool cocktail bar downstairs for a drink or to meet some other travellers.

(Avoid Air BnBs in Barcelona as it only adds to the over tourism problems)

Festivals In Gracia

If you're lucky enough to time your visit with one of the local festivals - be warned - the Catalans love a street festival.

As an Aussie something that always amazes me about Spanish festivals is the anything goes attitude to street drinking, fireworks and general debauchery. We just can't have nice things in Australia - they always seem to get banned. But the Spanish LOVE a good street festival where everyone from the youngest to oldest gets involved.

Festa Major de Gràcia - the major street festival in Gràcia is a huge event where there's a competition for decorating the streets and squares with paper lanterns, outdoor bars and stages for music, bands and DJs that party well into the night. The weekend parade up the Passage de Gràcia has marching bands, local musicians and dance troops celebrating all things Catalan.