A Trip To Fes (Fez): Morocco's Historic City

Exploring the old medina, artisan crafts, spectacular riads and rooftops with mountain views.

Fes is Morocco's ancient city. You can feel its historical significance as soon as you arrive through the Blue Gates of the Grand Porte Bab Boujeloud into its medieval labyrinth of alleyways and ochre coloured buildings.

Of all the big cities in Morocco I've visited - Fes's old medina feels the most authentic and for the locals still. Reasonably untouched by modern development, mass tourism and European influences.

Its streets are moody, smokey and narrow dotted with old world religious sites, spectacular riads, cultural museums, artisan workshops and traditional bakeries. 

The often dark, narrow and winding neighbourhoods make it more of a challenging city to get around for those travelling solo than the other main cities of Morocco. But a very worth while trip to get to the heart of Morocco's history if you give it the time to explore properly.

How many days in Fes

We spent 2 full days and 3 nights on this trip and I felt like we only just scratched the surface of what Fes has to offer with a bit more time to explore. 

Day 1 - We navigated the souks on our own which all pretty walkable although hilly in parts, popping in and out of artist workshops, cafes, shops and boutiques along the way. It was the lead up to Ramadan while we were here so the local crowds were out in force getting ready and new outfits for the season.

Day 2 - We spent with a local guide which was when we really got the full picture and significance of the history, easy entry into the mosques and visited all the little tucked away hidden pockets we wouldn't have found on our own.

Heritage Sites & Mosques Of Fes

Fes is teaming with incredible historic mosques and UNESCO world heritage sites, some of them the oldest and most significant Islamic sites in Morocco.

Just some of the spectacular places we visited with our guide

Museo Nejjarine - beautifully renovated multi level museum to see historical displays of artisan crafts and traditional architecture

Kairaoune Mosque - the second largest mosque in Morocco and oldest university built in the year 859.

Bou Inania - the historic 14th century madersa

Tour-guide licenses are heavily regulated in Morocco with only the most knowledgable professionals permitted to operate - so you're pretty safe with whoever you choose to book with!

Exploring The Souks Of Fes

Like many Moroccan old towns, Fes's old medina is a winding maze sectioned off into different areas and streets specialising in the various artisan crafts and products like the iron and metal workers, fabric weavers, clothing tailors, shoe makers and stone masons.

The Pottery of Fes

Fes's pottery is some of the most recognisable and sort after of the traditional Moroccan ceramics. The inky blue, turquoise green and gold hand painted vessels, tiles and bowls are hand made and fired in open air kilns in family run workshops and co-operatives on the outskirts of the city where they've been creating the same style of ceramics for generations.

There's a number of ceramics shops in the medina with a gorgeous selection of decorative tiles, bowls, plates and vases - and where you can arrange a visit to head out to see the workshops.

The Leather Tanneries

There's 3 large leather tannery complexes in Fes, all located within the medina walls, Chaoura being the largest of them.

Some of the best quality leather in Morocco (including much of the leather in Marrakech's markets) comes from these traditional tanneries where the cow and goats leather is treated in the huge stone vats, in the same methods that have been done for centuries.

You'll read a lot online about the strong smell of the leather tanneries in Fes - the warmer the weather you'll find the smell is a lot stronger. We visited on a day that had rained overnight, so it had been freshened up and the smell really wasn't an issue for us.

The local shop owners offer their terraces for photography for the views over the tanneries - some for free, some for a small fee, in exchange for a look around their shops. Some will offer bunches of mint to mask the strong smell.

Rainbow Street & Artists Quarter

A scenic corridor lined with small galleries, artist workshops and souvenir shops to wander through.

Where To Eat & Drink In Fes

Fes has a small offering of cafes and restaurants set in historic riad settings and lush courtyards tucked out of the way - so finding them can be a little tricky if you're just wandering around and don't know where you're looking. 

Restaurants and bars serving alcohol aren't as common to come across in Fes as they are in the more international cities, so best to plan ahead if you like a wine with your dinner.

Cafe Clock

One of the most well known cafes in Fes - Cafe Clock is a local institution, known for its local Moroccan dishes, community space for gatherings, workshops and supporting local causes.

Riad Fes

This historic luxury riad hotel has a stunning courtyard and terrace for a magical candle lit dinner by the pool. 

Even if not staying here as a guest, you can book in for a special dinner or drink to be able to get a glimpse of this beautiful hotel's interior.

Fez Cafe at Jardin des Biehns

We had a lovely dinner at Fez Cafe - a Mediteranean style menu and wine list in a beautiful leafy courtyard setting in the grounds of an historic riad and hotel.

The Ruined Garden

Rustic leafy courtyard restaurant cafe with large outdoor oven that's a scenic stop for lunch or dinner.

Fondouk Bazar

Rooftop cafe with a view over the medina thats a great stop in the middle of the souks for lunch and some sun.

Bakeries & Street Food Stalls

Some of the best food in Fes is not in the fancy restaurants at all, but in street side stalls of the medina with a fresh mint tea in hand.

Another reason to employ the help of a local tour guide for the day in Fes, to find all the best food stalls and lunch spots. From beautiful fresh bean soups and freshly baked breads straight from the traditional stone oven, to handmade pastries and deserts.

Where To Stay In Fes

Fes has some stunning accomodation options from luxury hotels to boutique guesthouses. It's not a big city to navigate so most areas of the medina to stay in are in walking distance to where everything is.

Here's some to try:

Boutique stays

Riad Anata - A lovely boutique riad stay with rooftop terrace

Riad Laroussa - Stunning design hotel riad with central pool and rooftop views

Dar Seffarine - Spectacularly renovated boutique riad with an incredible rooftop view over the mountains, that would be my pick if heading back to Fes again

Luxury Stays

Riad Fes - Grand riad hotel by Relais & Chateaux at the luxury end of the budget scale

Palais Amani - One of the more famous old style high end courtyard riads, a little more of an old school hotel, in a spectacular courtyard and location.